Adelaide – The Flinders Ranges
16 – 24 May
Off up to Adelaide to put the 4wd in on Monday morning to have its steering box replaced with a reconditioned unit. We had noticed quite a lot of play in the steering over the preceeding week, emphasised now that the vehicle was loaded up and we are traveling along some rougher roads than inner Melbourne. We figured we should get it fixed before we really needed to rely on the steering, and given the bit of off road driving we’ve been doing in the last few days we’re pleased that we coughed up to get it done.
With the car in the workshop, we were free to wander Adelaide. Off to our favourite markets, which despite more than half the shops being closed (as it was Monday) we were able to stock up on some goodies (salami, cheese, coffee, nuts …). With the car all sorted we hit the wine trail for some serious wine tasting.
Must say life is tough when you’re wine tasting in McLaren Vale (Monday arvo), Barossa Valley (Tuesday arvo) and Clare Valley (Wednesday morning). Guess these are the perks of not having jobs J. All in all, a successful stocking of our wine cellar; which had to be expanded to house our stash – 10 bottles in all (4 Red, 3 White, 2 Rose & 1 Pedro Xiamanth). We should be able to make it across to Margaret River on that lot. As a bonus after leaving Turkey Flat, the guy gave us 2/3 of a bottle of the soon to be released 2016 vintage of their famous Rose to have with dinner that night.
After all that indulgence we figured we had to get back to nature (literally) and headed to Mt Remarkable National Park. Along the way we stopped off at Port Pirie (largest lead smelter in the world, unfortunately due to improvement works they weren’t running tours), followed by Port Gemein. Port Germein has the longest wooden jetty in the world, which to Marcel’s quiet relief was closed from storm damage the preceeding week – otherwise it would have been a 3.26km return walk out to the end of the jetty!
The campsite at Mambray Creek was a great base for a couple of days with lots of wildlife around (Kangaroos, Kookaburras and Galahs to name a few). We headed out on a 18km loop walk to Hidden Gorge which, due to confusing signage, became 20km for us as we did a couple of unnecessary loops at the start. A steep climb up Battery Bluff gave great views back down to the Spencer Gulf before we worked our way down hidden Gorge with red rock cliffs lining the way.
We headed up to the Flinders Ranges after stocking up at the Supermarket in Port Augusta. At our camp spot just before Brachina Gorge, Marcel fortuitously looked up before heading to bed and noticed a brilliant Moon-bow (don’t know if that’s what it’s actually called, but I’m running with it). A really neat sight and we could make out the rainbow colours around the edge of the circle. The next morning we completed the Geological Trail through Brachina Gorge which sets out the multiple layers of rocks from when the ranges were forming 130 million years ago.
When we visited the Flinders Ranges 4½ years ago we thought it would be neat to come back and do the hike up St Mary’s Peak which is the highest point in the Flinders Ranges, so this time round we decided to make it an overnight walk and take the loop route. We walked into Wilpena Pound and along the floor to Cooinda Camp. On the way we went up to the Wangarra Lookout, where we were treated when a relatively rear Yellow-footed rock-wallaby hopped by and, completely unconcerned by our presence, had quite a munch on a bush right in front of us. Was really special to see the rock-wallaby up close for such an extended period of time – they have yellow forearms and feet and a neat yellow and brown ringed tail are quite distinctive.
The next morning we decided to have our breakfast on the track to head off the mosquitos that had gathered overnight. Mosquitos continued to plague us through the whole walk, including on windy exposed rocky sections where we hadn’t expected to find any. We received at least 20+ bites between us (Estelle’s immune system gets particularly reactive). I think we have learnt our lesson to take insect repellent with us in the future!
The track description of scrambling up and over boulders on all fours was right on the money and after a tough scramble up to the peak we were rewarded with 360deg views up the ranges and across Wilpena Pound. The 0.8km to the peak sign didn’t really capture the 350m odd vertical clamber required! On the way back we carefully picked our way down the rocky bluff on the outside of the Pound, then after a hot shower enjoyed a beer or two at the Resort’s bar for happy hour (to be clear we were in the cheap unpowered accommodation across the creek). It was a full on day, but really pleased we did the tramp.
The following day, after a spot of Emu Pate at the Prairie Hotel in Parachilna we headed back up the gorge we had come down earlier in the day to find a free camp spot by the creek amongst the River Red Gums. When we pulled up we head the distinct hiss of a puncture from the rear left tyre. So off it came and the spare swapped on. The next morning we purred down Parachilna Gorge out to the main road, and then just after we’d turned onto the tarseal ‘bang’ and we crunched along just managing to pull off the road. The spare we swapped onto the rear left was completely shredded and the car was resting on the hub. Not good!!
It took a big effort to swap our second spare on – get it down from the roof, our bottle jack was at the top of its range and Marcel was just able to get the new wheel on. After searching for information on what we should have as our tyre pressures as we sat on the edge of internet reception, we limped our way up to Leigh Creek, an anxious 66km up the road. Gonna need to do some research into this tyre pressure stuff, it makes much more difference than people think.
Stopping over in Leigh Creek for the night we were able to have our first tyre repaired and purchased a replacement for the second spare. We lowered the tyre pressures and fingers crossed we fare a bit better on the tyre front.
Leigh Creek is a coal mining town. It was quite noticeable how much quieter Leigh Creek was now that the mine had closed. When we were here 4 years ago it was really bustling, now only really the supermarket and service station were servicing the town. Hopefully they can find new areas of commerce.