Litchfield NP – Darwin
20 – 24 September
To continue our trip around the Top End we headed across to Litchfield NP. Five years ago when we passed through this area we didn’t have time to include Litchfield so were looking forward to finally getting there this time.
On the way in we stopped off to check out the magnetic termite mounds where the termites build a blade like mound running North-South. It was interesting to see these tombstone-like mounds, quite different to the large cathedral style mounds. The benefit of the blade shape running north-south is that there is only ever one side of the mound in the sun, helping to regulate the temperature of the mound. Onto Florence Falls where we waited for the rain downpour to stop before venturing out of the vehicle and to the lookout. While Marcel was taking photos he was quietly surrounded by a group of old biddies from the APT touring bus vying for the best photo spot. When he turned around he was a bit shocked by all the small old ladies, and made a quick but graceful exit.
Upstream of Florence falls is a series of deep cascading pools separated by small waterfalls. Quite a cool little area, and quite popular with the tourists. A little bit from the main set of pools were another set, which apparently no-one knows about as they were deserted, so we headed there for another swim. We happened upon a pool which had been made marginally higher by a small rock dam, so naturally we both set about making it bigger, then damming where the new flow started over the other side until we raised the water level by a few inches. We had decided it was a three swim type of day so went to the plunge pool below Florence Falls and swam in and out of the falling water. What an absolutely beautiful place.
Litchfield National Park is situated on a Sandstone plateau and escarpment which creates the amazing waterfalls it is known for. The sandstone stores water like a sponge during the wet and this slowly seeps out during the dry to allow water to flow all year round. Another feature of this sandstone is what is colloquially known as a Lost City formation, because it looks like the ruins of an ancient city. We found this quite an intriguing place and walked around it twice.
The stop that night was Wangi Falls, the most famous of the waterfalls in the park, evident by the about 100 people floating around the large plunge pool. It was both strangely nice to see so many people enjoying the outdoors, and a bit of a shock that we had to share the place with such a large group. I guess that speaks to how spoilt we have been thus far being the only ones at places like this. The walk to the top of the falls was a pretty gruelling climb up the escarpment, but at least we got some good views, and we were nice and hot by the time we got back to the pool for a dip.
The next day happened to be our fourth wedding anniversary and were planning on getting up to Darwin via the back route, stopping off at a lesser visited area called Walker creek where we found ourselves a private spa pool in the middle of a waterfall to relax. If we had more time it would have been nice to walk in and camp on the side of the creek, but we were content with the nice cool water and the sunshine.
Up the road in Darwin, we celebrated our anniversary at the Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, a Darwin institution, famous for its amazing selection of Asian street food, disco Digeridoo, and awesome sunsets from the beach. This was at the top of our lists of things to do while in Darwin. Our five course meal started off with a plate of oysters, progressing through some deep fried goodies, noodles, smoothies and finishing with a crepe each, all while sipping on mango beer and watching the sun set over the Darwin Harbour. What a beautiful end to the day.
The next day was car service day, and we didn’t get off lightly there. New bushes for the rear suspension, new front left wheel bearings, engine oil change, gearbox oil change and a general check over. While the mechanic was making my wallet considerably lighter we went into town for breakfast at a trendy little place called the rabbit hole before checking out the Darwin equivalent of an aquarium with a difference. Each one of their tanks is a closed ecosystem to itself. They are self feeding (on the most part) and the water was not changed or filtered, just topped up from time to time and aerated. The guide was a little vague about how this was achieved, but it was very cool to look over the tops of the tanks at the corals and sponges being nibbled at by the fishes, crays, crabs, sharks and sea cucumbers. Of special delight was the crab which likes to dress itself up, sticking bits of weed, sponge, coral and the like to itself to create pretty awesome camouflage.
The clouds were again looking ominous as we walked out along the pier which was quite heavily bombed during WWII, so headed back to the Darwin lagoon precinct for a beer and to work on our next post. Before we knew it the almost too familiar sound of a heavy downpour started and all we could do is high five ourselves for seeing this coming (this time at least).
Time for a little bit of late lunch, a wander through the Northern Territory equivalent to a house of parliament, a cheeky Icecream and along the waterfront for a bit of a walk before it was time to pick up the car.
Caravan parks in Darwin are ridiculously expensive; we’re talking about the cheapest ones being $50 per night, unpowered. That didn’t go down so well with Marcel to say the least, so I found this ‘Hobby Farm’ which had set itself up as a mini farm-stay caravan park type thing. For $15 per night, what could go wrong! Let’s just say that he has a very understanding wife to put up with being parked up in the back paddock of a farm with other European backpackers, and using the family house for our ablution needs. Oh well, at least it was cheap.
Before heading out of town the next morning we decided to visit the new and improved Military museum which had a new exhibit focusing on the Japanese attacks during WWII. A very well curated feature piece in a lot of respects, and complemented the other parts of the complex which showcased their 9.2” gun and various other pieces of military equipment they have.
But we must keep moving….
E & M